Ok first up two bits of news: they hired me!!

woooooot so i get to stay at least till jan. second, the deadline set by the military for the government was reached yesterday but the "cleanup campaign" was postponed because the military were having a rugby match against the police (and lost). Any i feel really safe in terms of the political instability since Vorovoro is miles away from anywhere, and all the locals say its senga n'lenga - sweet as. whenever you mention Bainemarama they just laugh and say hes stupid so they certainly aren't worried anyway.
Life here is going great. i basically spend half my time working here and there on things like the garden and the other half snoozing in hammocks or snorkelling the reef. The coral is amazing, coming in bright blue and pastel pink with rainbow coloured fish absolutelly everywhere. Its great waking up in the morning and looking out of the Bure window straight onto the beach with fish jumping and nothing but clear blue water to the horizon.... it looks something like this:
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The food is excellent, we have this remarkable lady who works in the kitchen, and after dinner she just walks straight into the ocean and swims home to her village on the next island - classic.
On tuesday i had a preliminary go at the four peaks challenge. This is a foot race to the top of each peak on the island and back to the village, covering many types of terrain. Peak one is dry scrub and rocky outcrops with a small cliff to climb on the way up. Peak two is the highest, with a length of mangrove and driftwood covered ground to reach the lower slopes, then up along ash bed from the fire a month or so ago.
Peak three requires a scramble up a narrow (about 1 m wide) volcanic rock ridge with a sheer drop on one side at least 100 m high, and a slightly less steep cliff on the other side all the way to the top.
Peak four is dense forest most of the way up and down, with vines and logs everywhere. Then its a run through a dry river bed full of bamboo, driftwood and coconuts then the final dash along the beach.
I managed in about 40 mins which is fairly close to the fastest time, so if i gave it a proper go when i know the route better i think i have a good chance of doing quite well.
On wednesday we went to the kids school for their annual prizegiving ceremony.
After about half an hour of being mobbed by children trying to get me to play paper-scissors-rocks and clapping games we managed to get inside and listened to some speeches from the chief Tui Mali and a very stirring and at times very strong one from the headmaster about how the parents need to start encouraging their children to go to school, and to start creating a home environment more conducive to their learning.
before prizes were given out the children all sang their songs; they are amazingly talented for their age, being perfectly in tune and in time, not like i was at school choir. Seeing the meagre resources available to them and the effort they all put in to get to school each day despite the lack of support made me feel really lucky to have had the opportunities i have had in terms of education.
On thursday a couple f others and I got up at 4.30 am to go fishing. This was wicked fun, we basically just tow around a plastic spinner on a ridiculously heavy piece of cord with lead pinched onto it. I cought 3 fish, one of which was an 8kg Walu >
[link] , putting me firmly in the lead for fishing (the next closest is 6kg). Walu is A-grade fish as well, and fetches quite a high price in the local markets, so that was an added bonus. We ate it the next day for our cheif handover feast, celebrating the exchange from the november cheif to december chief ("cheif" is just an elected representative of he online tribe). The highlight of the fishing trip was not the record fish however, but the two massive turtles we saw within about 3 meters of the boat (didnt have my camera sorry). I never thought i would see such a rare creature in the wild, let alone two reallly beautiful ones at once.
Later that day i managed to catch a chicken and about 5 chicks for the coop as well, so pretty productive all together.
Working in this environment is really intense, with 30 degree C heat most of the day and well into the night, and extreme humidity. The sea is full of microbes, which when combined with the constant dampness means even tiny cuts and scratches never heal, so im gradually collecting scrapes and blisters despite treating everything with antiseptic and plasters..... oh well. Our little village is coming along nicely, all we really need is rain. Despite it being the rainy season, we are still extremely short of water because the island is in its own little microclimate, with the clouds blowing straight over it untill they reah th mainland. the only time we get rain is when the wind is low enough and the clouds numerous enough so that they pile up and completely fill the harbour right out to Vorovoro. This is wicked from a holidaying perspective, but not great news for the project. It should be ok because we arent expecting many people over the next few weeks because of the political situation, so not to great a water demand.
This weeks project is building a walkway across the rocks to the pontoon jetty we just had built and towed out to the island. This is so we can park boats and load/unload on the mainland side of the island (saving petrol) and stop damaging the coral by driving across it and throwing anchors in it every time we drop people/things off.
Im really happy to be staying on, i dont really feel like i have had time to experience everything and contribute all that i can in the week ive been here, and there wont be many people here meaning everything should be pretty chilled out. I also get to have christmas here, marking the start of the fijian's celebration part of the year, which should be wicked fun having seen the ceremonies and feasts so far
Unfortunately i forgot to put the memore card back in my camera after my last trip to town, so i only have old photos to show you, i'll have to wait till i get back to upload my pics from the last couple days plus some sound clips of the locals busting out a few songs in the Bure.
Heres me starting to look a bit feral after a few days living here
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heres a bit of the Labasa main street (where i am now), unfortunately not the market which is really amazing, coz i didnt really want to flash my camera there
[link] its really funny sitting in this internet cafe listening to 60s indian music
heres one of my roommates
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and a reef denizen
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